In Morocco

In Morocco is actually the title of a book by Edith Wharton, which I own but have yet to read.  Hoping to start it soon!

But yes, I am in Morocco, and having a fabulous time so far!  Yesterday was my birthday (the big 2-6), and it was certainly memorable...

I left Madrid around noon and flew into Casablanca, where I was supposed to meet Wadih at the airport.  Unfortunately, however, his train was delayed, and I didn't have a good way to get in touch with him.  The way that the Casablanca airport is set up, you actually leave the building to go out and meet your ride, and you can't get back in without showing a boarding pass for an outgoing flight.  So that meant that there were no phones around either.  After wandering around looking for Wadih (and standing out, for sure, among all of the Moroccans), I finally got the courage to ask a friendly-looking middle-aged woman to call him for me on her cell phone.  I of course, don't speak very much French or Arabic, so I sort of pointed at Wadih's phone number on a piece of paper and said something that translated approximately to "Number of boyfriend. Me no have phone. Please." But she figured it out, called, and not too long later, Wadih and I were reunited.  Thank goodness for her help!

So after that we got on the train to El Jadida, where Wadih works, only to have a 1.5 hour trip turn into a 3 hour trip when the train broke down in the middle of the trip.  Unfortunately for all of the people on board, yesterday was the last day of Ramadan, and the train broke down during the period where they were supposed to be breaking their fasts. With several hundred people stuck in a field on a train and no food with which to break the fast, everyone was remarkably good-natured and kind.  Somebody had a bag of dates, which they passed out to everyone to share, and I had a bag of dried blueberries, which Wadih distributed by telling people they were "American dates" (I don't think people really liked them, and I even heard one guy trying to explain what a blueberry is).  It was actually quite a lovely experience - breaking fast (I hadn't eaten since before I left Spain) with a train full of Moroccans. 

By the time we actually got to the hotel, it was dark.  The hotel sent a fruit basket up to our room as a welcome gift for me, and they prepared an amazing dinner of beef tajine (typical Moroccan food), eggs, yogurt, almond pastries, bread, tuna sandwiches, bread, honey coated desserts, and fresh squeezed juice.  Wadih had to "go to work" (i.e. play guitar at the hotel's outside terrace), so I sat with some people from Ireland and chatted while he was playing.  Half-way through, Wadih and the hotel staff brought out champagne and three small cakes for my birthday - everyone sang, and I got some beautiful earrings and a scarf and hat set (for cold weather in Paris) from Wadih.  We finished the night by hanging out in the garden and listening to music.  So a little bit crazy at the beginning... but by the end, a beautiful birthday :)

Today, we ate another fabulous breakfast (goodness, I love the food here!) and then went out to explore the medina, or old city, of El Jadida.  There are a series of Portuguese fortifications set against the Atlantic ocean that were beautiful (and reminiscent of Cadiz, for anyone who has been there).  Today is a special day in the Muslim world - Eid el Fitr signals the end of Ramadan and is the first time that people can eat and drink during the day.  Everyone was out in the streets, shops were closed, and people were visibly happy.  We found some young boys playing Gnawa music and sat with them for a little bit to listen.  Despite a nice breeze, it was pretty hot, so the afternoon consisted of lunch, nap, and then more music in the garden. 

The next couple of days will probably be fairly similar, as Wadih is finishing up his job here and has to play for a few more evenings.  Perhaps tomorrow will include a trip to the beach :)

Photos (and videos) to come! Peace, and thank you all for your birthday wishes!